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Since Tulum was a really slow sailboat and we often just didn’t want to do huge daily runs….this one single run during daylight hours would become one of our longest single day runs. We did 67 miles during daylight….rolling down Route Bikini south from Caleta de Campos to Isla Grande. Isla Grande is also called Isla Ixtapa, but I’m calling it Isla Grande for this post.
We took off out of Caleta de Campos at 0610, just barely having daylight break before we were up and moving out of the anchorage. It had been a rolly night anyways, so we were ready to move on and get this big chunk of distance out of the way. It was 16 December by now, so we wanted to make sure we were in Zihua comfortably by Christmas. My notes say that we were able to get sails up at 0900 and we were able to motor sail comfortably at 7knts for several hours…before the wind died just about when we were out front of Lazaro Cardenas. By 1145 we had made Lazaro Cardenas and were in the cargo ship traffic schemes, but we crossed straight over them and continued on our way. At 1306 we talked to The Maersk New Haven and confirmed by voice that we would pass them port to port ( a bit closely)….but again continued on our way without incident.
Moving efficiently, Tulum came into the west anchorage in front of Playa Cuachalatote on Isla Grande at approximately 1725 (before dark). We anchored a bit further out from the panga floats and behind other cruisers in 14 feet of water (low tide) and put out 80 feet of chain, digging the anchor into sand and mud. We made it. Our buddy boat made it too, but this would be the last time we saw them, as they took off for Zihua before we did and anchored in a different part of the bay. I heard from others that the boat decided to head back north, done with cruising after this.
For this long run, we had light winds and seas….which was great for us.
Here’s more info:
Ease of anchoring: We anchored in the west facing anchorage where the small star is above, putting Tulum just slightly further back from other cruisers. We anchored over 14 feet of mud/sand with 80 feet of chain out….dug in well.
Noise at anchor: Yes. The tourist pangas operate late at night and early in the morning, but the shore music/clubs shut down fairly early.
Provisioning: Not really, go to Zihua.
Cellular reception at anchor: Yes.
Wifi in the anchorage: Nope.
Water Clarity: Nope, because of the swells/pangas.
Protection: Not really. I’d run to Zihua or the marina for really bad weather.
Bugs: None.
Beach: Yes, but there’s beaches but there’s also a million tourists.
Would We Go Back: Yes
Whew….we had done it…finally gotten down to the Zihua area to see what all the hoopla was about with Zihua and surrounding areas. It was a long trip and we were now committed to heading south, but happy to be able to stop for a bit and hang out.
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Here’s some of our other writing about Zihua:
No more tracks! Manzanillo to Zihuatenejo: Slow or Fast?
Places We’ve Been: Major Stops Along Mexico’s West Coast