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Travel With Kids: Osaka, Japan- Day 2

On the way out of the city on our bus, I snapped this pic of Osaka Castle, against the modern buildings.

So much to see and so little time.  Waking up in Japan for the first time on this second day in country after a great nights sleep was refreshing and I was excited to go exploring.  We would start the day with an unexpected breakfast…heartier than I thought it would be.  The hotel served a fresh buffet of some American breakfast, but mostly traditional Japanese breakfast food.  It was a decent cultural awakening…we were not in Kansas anymore.   

This second day would bring us to some of the highlights of the trip…CupNoodles Museum, Osaka Castle and the famous Dotonbori outdoor entertainment and street food district.  Here we go: 

CupNoodles Museum 

Ok, first thing people….let’s get this right.  It’s NOT Cup O’ Noodles or Cup Of Noodles.  It’s CupNoodles, and we were going right into the noodle heart of it all- the museum OF noodles, including the original kitchen where the first CupNoodles was made.

Actually, the kids were there to make their own custom CupNoodles.  They were hustled away into a food making classroom where they were shown all the different flavors and types of ramen they could make and were allowed to go to work.  That means I was loose to look around so I could bring you these rad pics.

One of several large classrooms where kids are taught how to make their own CupNoodles.
Toppings the kids were allowed to use and the packaging the kids would end up with…with little backpack straps on the back so they could carry them.
The original kitchen were the first CupNoodles were made.
Every Single CupNoodle currently on sale.
The CupNoodle wall. Every single CupNoodle ever made.
CupNoodle Founder

Lunch

Lunch at a fashionable area right outside the park that surrounds Osaka Castle was a reminder of my own ignorance in not asking the right questions before blithely ordering what I thought looked great on the menu.

Here’s the menu- a good looking dish at a reasonable price served with a drink. What could go wrong?
Here’s a lunch I ordered, looks great. Note the tiny baby fork they gave me…cause they had no other forks.

Lunch came out and looked great.  Exactly what I ordered.  Except…it was cold.  Really cold, like not the hot chicken and noodle lunch I was expecting.  Should have done a bit more homework in line before I ordered.  My fault.  But the gyoza were great.

Osaka Castle

To say that the Osaka Castle complex is large is an understatement. It’s huge. Compared with the surrounding small tenant farmers that originally lived and worked in the Osaka Area, the castle and its grounds were a statement of power. During one siege, there was an army of over 200,000 warriors who were unable to take even the outer walls of this massive fort.
The original walls on both sides of the OUTER moat. I love the juxtposition of the old and the new in this photo- new modern buildings against timeless stone walls.

Before I continue writing more about Osaka Castle, I wanted you to understand the difference between what westerners might think of a castle and what Osaka Castle really was.  To me, Osaka Castle is a fort, because the largest and grandest building (keep or tenshu) wasn’t used as a residence and wasn’t usually used directly in the defense of the whole structure.  Instead, the large keep/tenshu we think of as Osaka Castle was a storage building in peacetime and an armory during conflict.  The reader should also understand that the tenshu was burned down and rebuilt a number of times over the centuries, by both conquering warlords and lightning.  Many of the buildings in Japan were built out of wood and had a propensity to burn when struck by lightning.  The fact that so many very old buildings had been rebuilt over the centuries is telling, as Japan is subject to hurricanes, earthquakes and lightning.

The entire area around the tenshu forms a very, very large and strong fort, the entirety of which is commonly called Osaka Castle.  Take a look at the overall photo I’ve put below with my markings.

The black circle denotes the inner moat which forms the main part of Osaka Castle. The tiny black dot is the largest structure we traditionally think of as a castle…the keep or tenshu that was used as a storehouse and armory.
First tenshu at Osaka Castle. This is located along the outer moat, outside the inner moat and the main portion of Osaka Castle.
Massive wall of the inner moat, with the top of the tenshu just visible in the background.
Wall along the inner moat. The main entrance to the inner portion of Osaka Castle can be seen in the background to the left of the photo.  The Miraiza Building is visible through the trees.
Another view looking at walls of the inner moat.
The Octopus Stone, a 130-ton megalith which is used in the inner defense wall at Osaka Castle, directly in front of the Sakuramon Gate. This is the largest castle stone in Japan and is thought to be one of the 5 largest the world.  It’s called the Octopus Stone because of the octopus shape visible in the lower left corner, difficult to see in my picture.

After entering the imposing Sakuramon Gate over the inner moat and passing the huge stones that make up the inner defense wall, you enter the main complex that makes up Osaka Castle.  Directly in front of you across a large flat area is the five story tenshu (keep).  To the left is a very large flat area that looks like a military parade deck or a martial fighting area and on the right is the Miraiza Building.  This building has an interesting history that was glossed over by our guide (probably on purpose).  Built in 1931 during the commemoration of Emperor Hirohito’s enthronement, the building became the military headquarters to the 4th Japanese Imperial Army Division.  This division was primarily recruited and based around Osaka and participated in campaigns during the Sino-Russian conflict and several other uprisings.  The Division was used during WWII extensively in the Philippines and other places, especially during the campaigns to take Corregidor, Bataan and the Luzon Peninsula.

The Miraiza Building, purposely built in 1931 in a western style (including the turrets).  It would survive allied bombing raids in 1945 while the main tenshu was mostly destroyed.
Osaka Castle (Tenshu).  Rebuilt out of ferrocement in 1931.  90% destroyed by a US bombing raid while it was serving as an armory in August 1945 and rebuilt and restored in 1995.
Mist in operation as we climb the steps to the tenshu, which is now a museum. Yep, it was really, really hot and humid.

As you read through this portion of the post you might notice there’s no pictures from inside the tenshu, which functions as a modern museum.  This is on purpose, as we were asked not to take  pictures inside the museum because of some of the ancient historic pieces housed there.  Flash photography can have a damaging effect on pigments in writing on various surfaces.  And yes, the museum has real and ancient kanji writing in climate controlled cases on several floors of the museum.  But we were allowed to take pics on the top floors for some great views:

In the pic you can see the original tenshu on the far left of the pic where black arrow points (outside the inner moat), the yellow arrow points to the Miraiza Building (inside the inner moat) and and the yellow circle is the old parade ground but also was where the second largest structure was before it burned down; the building that housed the Jodai (official (Lord) who was defender of Osaka Castle).

Exploring Dotonbori

Dotonbori is a district inside the city of Osaka with a canal running through it and several streets dedicated to nightlife, entertainment and lots of restaurants serving both street food and inside food.  During our time there, I was exhausted (jet lag), overheated and had not done any reading on the local area.  I also don’t do well with huge crowds but since the family wanted to go to Japan so badly, I did my best.  I’m sorry I was a grump to the family and our friend who chose to go along with us on this day.

Going through the area in the middle of the hottest time of the afternoon wasn’t a great way to go, but I understand why the group did it.  There were already huge crowds in the area in the heat, but trying to keep track of even our very small individual groups in the crowded darkness would have been impossible.  So, in retrospect I’m glad we went in the daylight, even through it was over hot and very humid.  Here’s pics of Dotonbori:

The canal in Dotonbori, originally developed in 1612. Take a read about Dotonburi .  Yes, the yellow structure is a ferris wheel.
This restaurant that allows you to FISH and then cooks what you catch, I think.
Yes, even in the 90+ degree heat and humidity, it was super crowded.
It finally started to cool off…as we were heading out.

And so after a long day of seeing more of Osaka, we boarded our heavenly air conditioned bus and made our way back to the hotel.  The third day would come a bit earlier, as we were headed for Nara.


Recommendations if you go:

-CupNoodles Museum is very cool, especially if you or the kids love ramen.  However, the place isn’t geared toward just showing up and getting a spot in one of the classrooms for junior to make ramen.  I would recommend getting a reservation.  For us adults, the museum and gift shop were great, kept me entertained while the kids were in the workshop. 

Osaka Castle:  YES.  I would go back and spend an entire day in the park, just to see all the buildings we didn’t get to do see.  As a family we would eat and perhaps have a cocktail in the Miraiza building just to check it out and I would want to go look at the state guest house and tea room if allowed.  There’s a great area you can walk to that serves various kinds of food lunches not far away.

Dotonburi:  Great to go see and experience, once (for me).  I think it would be a rad place to go if I was in college or with a group of friends but maybe not with young kids.  If you’re looking for some street food or a distraction and don’t mind the crowds, this is a good spot.  Very colorful and outgoing.    

As someone who writes I’m finding that I sometimes appreciate and get more excited about places I’ve been after I’m back and can sit down and write about our travels.  That certainly seems to be the case with our trip to Japan.  Writing about Dotonburi is cool and exciting because I know a bit more about it now, but while we were there I was among a million of my closest friends in 90 degree heat with humidity.  I had not researched the area well and had no idea the canal and entertainment area had been in place since the 1600’s.  Shame on me.  I’ll do better next time. 

We travel with our kids and write about it.  On this website you can find writing about our extended cruising trip in Central America, our travels around the US by school bus, our travels around the rest of the globe, our donkey raising and racing habit and various types of cooking/recipes.  Yep, we keep busy. 

Here’s some of our other writing about this Japan trip: 

Travel With Family- A Summer Trip To Japan- 1

Travel With Family- Osaka, Japan- Day 1

Back to Japan…in a most unexpected way- By The HelmsMistress

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