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Places We’ve Been: Puerto Ballandra (Isla Carmen), BCS Mexico

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We anchored in Puerto Ballandra on two separate occasions in two different years, chasing the myth of perfect harbor and sheltered anchorage.  For some, Puerto Ballandra is one of the finest natural harbors in Baja.  With nighttime views of Loreto and strong cell service + northerly and southerly wind and swell protection, this is the place for many a cruiser to hang out.

Courtesy of Google Maps

The first time (2019) we anchored in Puerto Ballandra we had done a 43-mile run from Punta San Telmo into the Loreto Triangle area hoping to drop the hook in Honeymoon Cove.  But like normal for Honeymoon Cove, there were two super yachts in the middle of the lobes in deep water and another sailboat in the 3rd lobe.  Way too crowded to try to get two 50+ foot sailboats into.  So we continued a long day of movement, settling on Puerto Ballandra if it wasn’t too busy.  It was busy.  Upon arrival we found seven boats already in the cove, including two large Nordhavn’s but we were exhausted and decided to anchor anyways.  The first time we anchored, we dropped the hook deep in 45 feet of water.  But after letting out scope and settling a bit, Tulum was too close to another boat so we hauled up the anchor and moved.  This time, we put ourselves to the bows of both Nordhavn’s and anchored in 25 feet of water.  As we settled with moderate scope out, we were close to the powerboats,  but ok for the night.  Checking out the scene, we knew there were alot of boats in the anchorage and a northerly was to come down Baja in the next few days.  So although the cove was protected, it was also packed with boats.  Notes in my Captain’s Log say I was already ready to leave.  The anchorage was crowded and we didn’t think we wanted to be here for a northerly, plus we were jazzed to go find the snorkeling and perfect white sand beach at Salinas.  The next day, we pulled anchor in great weather and headed around the island to anchor in what would become one of our favorite anchorages, Salinas.  We rode out the northerly with only two other boats in this huge bay.

The second time (2020) we poked our nose into Puerto Ballandra we were met another “kid” boat and anchored on the other side of the bay within swimming distance of them.  The anchorage was a bit more mellow and we enjoyed one more night here, then took off for somewhere else.

Puerto Ballandra.  The yellow stars indicate approximate waypoints from Sea of Cortez, A Cruiser’s Guidebook.  On Tulum’s different stays here, we anchored in those approx locations. 

Here’s more info: 

Ease of anchoring:  We anchored over a sand/mud bottom in 45, 25 and 23 feet feet of water.  Perhaps due to the season, we did not find clear water here or pure sandy bottom.  Because of the submarine canyon from the entrance in through the middle of the bay, anchoring can be deep and tricky if you are close to that underwater canyon.   

Noise at anchor:  None.  

Provisioning:  None.   

Cellular reception at anchor:  Yes, strong.

Wifi in the anchorage:  No.

Water Clarity:  We didn’t find clear water in the bay. 

Protection:  We had heard of Puerto Ballandra and its wonders before we even got into Baja…nearly 360 degree protection being one of the perks.  However, there’s no protection from west to east….and winds do come screaming off the Gigante Mountains from west to east, although not that often.  There is wind and swell protection from the north, east and south, but we never stayed long enough to find out.  Why?  Because each time we were there the anchorage was crowded and we didn’t want to stay in a crowded anchorage during a weather event if we didn’t have to.     

Bugs:  Yes, there’s the potential for bugs in this anchorage even in dry and arid Baja.  Why?  There’s the side of the bay with the Baja beach (close to the Shawn and Heather waypoint BCS381) where fish camps have been set up and some vegetation where there’s a potential for bugs, even for boats off the beach and at anchor.  This is where we anchored that first time we stayed here and I noted in my Captain’s Log that there may be bugs. 

Beach:  Yes, there’s a Baja beach.  

Would We Go Back:  Probably.  But I strongly say that this is a place not to be missed, so you can make up your own mind.  

Looking from the beach to the harbor entrance towards Loreto. Courtesy of Google Maps. 

Ok, my disclaimer:  Please don’t use my posts for navigation.  They are meant to be informative and mildly interesting travel blog posts but not navigational aids.  There- nuff said.  

I am using the guidebook Sea of Cortez, A Cruisers Guidebook and my own notes + google maps to create very accurate and first-hand accounts of the anchorages we stayed in during our four years of cruising with kids and our Great Dane to allow you to get a sense of place in something besides a guidebook.  I realized early how very valuable it was to read about places and experiences from folks who had been there, who had their own life dramas and ideas about travel that resonated with me.  So I devoured all the Youtube and literature I could on places I wanted to go….and I hope my own writing about our traveling will ignite that same passion in you! 

Got questions about Baja, cruising with family, taking a Great Dane cruising on a sailboat- we did all that and would love to hear from you if you wanna shoot us questions. 

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