Places We’ve Been: Bahia Candeleros, BCS Mexico

What can I say?  We stayed in this world class anchorage numerous times during our seasons in Baja as we sheltered from both hurricanes and Covid; taking advantage of the cell phone reception and world class views.  This was an anchorage we returned to numerous times, knowing it was large enough we would always get a great spot over good holding ground.

Finding a secure anchorage large enough for numerous boats that also had cell service and jaw dropping views was like a dream come true upon entering the Loreto/Puerto Escondido area.  Bahia Los Candeleros is a large half-moon shaped bay open to the north and flanked by the Sierra de le Giganta Mountains to the west and smaller hills to the south as the mountains rush to meet the sea.  On the far eastern side of the bay sits the swanky Villa Del Palmar Loreto resort and golf course.  The resort apparently claims most of the shoreline of the entire bay, as they discouraged cruisers from coming ashore on the beaches, but it was during Covid, so things may have changed by now.  The bay can accommodate many boats even spread out in cruiser formation, but most still gravitate toward the waypoint given by the Shawn and Heather book,  Sea of Cortez a Cruisers Guidebook.  That waypoint is BCS334 found on page 160.  We’ve even anchored closer in than the waypoint, but winds change fast in this bay, watch scope if you over on the east side and close to the shore.  Also be aware of the rocky outcropping in the middle of the bay, waypoint BCS 335 also on page 160.  I’d say we stayed in this anchorage over a dozen times during the seasons we cruised Baja, always feeling like the spot welcomed us back with open arms and great cell service.  From Agua Verde, it’s a 17 mile run north to Candeleros proper.  We usually anchored in about 25-32 feet and almost always put out more scope than we needed, 150-175 feet of scope cause I liked it that way.  Folks stayed here on the belief that it was super protected.  The Gigante Mountains tower to the north and west and there’s a point to the east,,,,but it’s totally open to the north, giving you the islands to look at during sunset.  However, the wind does come pouring through the mountain passes and makes for interesting wake-ups in the middle of the night.  Luckily, when this happens and you do get the katabatic winds moving from the west to the east….the boat is usually pushed offshore by the wind so you’re not sitting against a lee shore.  This is one of two places in Baja where we had enough sudden wind come up that we broke/seriously stretched a snubber and I was forced to attach another one in the middle of the night.  Same goes for having to sleep in the cockpit to watch things…only one of two places in Baja I had to do this.  And….this would NOT be a place to stay during a Baja northerly, as the wind just comes directly into the bay.  Aside from these things, the bay is rad.

Lastly, (although we were here during Covid), we did do one shore expedition to check out the hotel and have lunch.  We were questioned on the beach until they figured out we were going to have lunch and a drink, then the beach crew watched our dinghy while we checked out the hotel.  Lunch was outside and pretty reasonable, a great break from the boat for a couple hours.  Suffice to say, the hotel staff did make it clear to a number of cruisers that the rest of the beach was for hotel guests and those folks were asked to leave by security.  It’s probably different now that we’re out of Covid, hopefully the rules have relaxed.

Here’s more info: 

Ease of anchoring:  We anchored multiple times in water from 15/25/30 feet over sand but there is live/dead green vegetation on the bottom as well.  We had one occasion where we pulled a ton of it up with our anchor and had to hack it off to get the anchor back onboard.  We put out our usual 5-1 scope and never had holding problems.    

Noise at anchor:  If it’s a Fri or Sat night and the hotel club disco is going off then you might hear some poppin techno or yet another version of achy-breaky heart.  And if it’s really quiet you might even hear the truck jake-brakes as they come down the steep hills into the Loreto area. 

Provisioning:  None, but you can go to the hotel for drinks and restaurant food.

Cellular reception at anchor: Yes.

Wifi in the anchorage:  Yes if you can convert cell to Wi-Fi or if you have Starlink.

Water Clarity:  If you find a spot over sand then you will probably see the bottom during calm mornings.  We were able to sit here and see our anchor on multiple occasions.  But if you don’t choose well and you drop over the bottom vegetation, then you’ll see green.   Not much visibility in the afternoons.  Snorkeling is ok, but most everything interesting over at Pinnacle Rock is fished out. 

Protection:  Good protection from the south, west and east, but expect that you can get katabatic winds from the mountains.   No protection from the north- both wind and swells.  I would not be here during a northerly. 

Bugs:  None. 

Beach:  Yes. White sandy beach in front of the hotel and Baja brown beach the rest of the bay.  

Would We Go Back:  Yes!    

Ok, my disclaimer:  Please don’t use my posts for navigation.  They are meant to be informative and mildly interesting travel blog posts but not navigational aids.  There- nuff said.  

Got questions about Baja, cruising with family, taking a Great Dane cruising on a sailboat- we did all that and would love to hear from you if you wanna shoot us questions.