Lofoten Islands
Part II
Picking up from last time, we awoke from our power nap refreshed and ready for our midnight sun kayak with Northern Explorer. The gently winding road up to Eggum soon revealed towering green cliffs that emerge directly from the sea, still dusted with snow glinting in the sun. I felt like we were driving to the end of the earth! After a brief orientation to our 2-woman kayak, our small fleet of international kayakers headed out towards a small chunk of land where we would sit and enjoy the sun…minus the set. As we paddled out with ease, I was reminded of how much I love being on the water. Our present dwelling does not offer such proximity to the sea. I was also reminded that an easy paddle out, means a tough one back, but for now, I enjoyed the ride and the breathtaking surroundings. I still couldn’t fathom that it was almost midnight!
Click Here….Eggumdrive
We stopped at an uninhabited island covered in beautiful soft greenery and wildflowers. I kept waiting for the trolls from Frozen to emerge from the foliage to give me some Nordic advice. No trolls, but beautiful scenery with a hot cup of tea and biscuits to enjoy our views of the sun hovering over the Norwegian Sea. What a gift to prolong one of my favorite times of day!
The paddle back offered a bit more ocean spray, but also a rare closeup view of a sea eagle. With a wingspan of over 7 feet, it was a perfect finale to our kayak to watch it swoop away into the horizon. Elated and lacking an internal time clock, we drove a bit further up the road to the true end of the world (so it seemed anyway). We found an old WWII German radar station, some wild sheep, lots of campervans, and the end of the rainbow (but no pot of gold). At almost 2 am the sun was still “setting” and it was time to head back for some rest before our final day.
Today we headed south bound for Å, a fishing village reached by driving along scenic King Olav’s Road which connects the Lofoten archipelago. First stop…Sjokoladerommet AKA “The Chocolate Room” for amazing cinnamon rolls and chocolate truffles…why not?! This cozy nook offered great treats that they were preparing in their partially concealed kitchen in the back of a quaint little home. Perfect place to sip a cappuccino and embrace the day. Next stop, Lofoten Seaweed https://lofotenseaweed.no. I had seen this place featured on a travel vlog: Helen and Tim Travel https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y-LCY32lunk&t=76s , and was curious to check it out. Their mission, simply stated in their brochure is “to bring seaweed back into the modern kitchen”. We sampled various seaweed types, all locally harvested by hand and packed full of nutrients. You’ll see their seasonings in local stores, but for the variety, opportunity to sample their products, and to gain an understanding of their important mission, I highly recommend the stop.
We finally made it to Å, home of the Stockfish Museum (Lofoten Tørrfiskmuseum) and an old stone oven bakery that boasts the world’s best cinnamon rolls (you’re noticing a theme aren’t you?). Unfortunately, due to my clueless internal clock and need to recover from the midnight kayak, we arrived just after the world-famous bakery had closed. Stockfish museum it was! Not gonna lie, this wasn’t on my “must do list” for Lofoten, but it’s cheap, self-paced, and a critical part of their economic and cultural history so I highly recommend making the stop to learn about this lifestyle that dates back to the Stone Age. Among the facts I learned: Stockfish are hung out to dry on a hjell in the winter months to lose 80% of their weight and are then exported throughout the world, the fish ear bones were fortunetellers used to predict everything from weather to love, the Draugen is an undead creature of Norwegian folklore that plague the fishermen and led to many unique beliefs and practices, and kids make a lot of money cutting out cod tongues (a delicacy that we had to try). This Smithsonian article says it all – “This job makes selling Girl Scout cookies or running a lemonade stand look like child’s play.” https://www.smithsonianmag.com/arts-culture/norway-kids-slice-cod-tongues-serious-money-180979245/ As you might imagine, the smell of fish is ever present as are the squawks of seagulls awaiting a handout. This just adds to the allure of this quaint village with the quintessential red and white buildings and towering snow-capped peaks in the background. Next time we’ll arrive in time for the bakery! We finished with an incredible meal at Gammelbua Restaurant in Reine and I can now vouch for the quality of world-famous Norwegian seafood!
Back at the hotel, we finished our evening with a relaxing sauna and exhilarating cold plunge into the arctic waters. My hat’s off to those who do the true cold plunge in the winter as I had been sufficiently cooked prior to my dip. I think I truly slept better that evening and wish I could export this experience back to my desert home in wintertime.
A few thoughts if you are planning a trip during this season (June):
- Weather can be flukey, so plan ahead and dress accordingly. Endless sunshine and views one-minute, cold rain and socked in mountains the next. Listen to the locals.
- Get a car – Buses are very nice, but infrequent and in order to enjoy the amazing beaches, tiny fishing villages, and absolute splendor that is the Lofoten Islands, I recommend a car. My very well-traveled friend used Getaround to secure us a vehicle. It was fairly seamless, affordable, and allowed us to get the most of our time on the island. Depending on where you stay on the islands, you may be very remote and far removed from restaurants and shops. That’s exactly why people come – to enjoy the peace and natural beauty. Just plan ahead for meals, activities, and available transportation.
- Sleepy mask required – Between jetlag and the sun that never sets, you’ll want to engage all sleep aids available. I was struck by the power the sun has on my circadian rhythm; sun = awake. Good luck with that battle.
- Saunas – Find a place that offers a sauna. It is perhaps the best treat at the end of a day of adventuring.
- Get out and enjoy nature – There are endless hiking opportunities that sadly, we did not take advantage of, but in the right weather pattern and with more time to spare, I’d like to return to enjoy venturing up to enjoy some of these beautiful vistas that Lofoten is famous for.
We only spent 2 ½ days in this tranquil land that I someday hope to return to, so let’s consider this a preview for future travel. Thank you Ali for your spectacular travel planning, especially given the short time window. It’s still a blast to explore new corners of the globe with you after all these years!
Did you catch the first post last week about adventures in Norway? If not, check out Adventures In The Lofted Islands, Part I.
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