Hawai’i Volcanoes National Park: Where Real Lava Flows

One of the main reasons we came to Hawaii for this spring break trip was to see friends, relax AND visit Hawai’i Volcanos National Park….where regular people can often see volcanos come to life.  This is the land of REAL lava flows, devoid of the foofy tourist concoctions served on Waikiki Beach.  But this National Park is expensive to visit (several flights and a long car ride + a probable need to find lodging).  For some, visiting Hawai’i Volcano’s National Park could be a very long day trip, bookended with driving to and from Kona (about 4 hours each way) or Hilo (about an hour).  For us, we chose to stay RIGHT on the volcano’s edge, complete with volcano sulphur smell and tephra all around us.  The next day, we took off to visit Hilo and surrounding sights on the way back to Kona.  Here we go:

Starting With Two-Step

Leaving Kona, we had packed up the SUV and headed out; our friends knew a good snorkeling spot between Kona and the National Park….called Two-Step.  This place is named for the famous steps down and then back up the rocks leading you into the crystal clear water in the cove in front of you.  Access to most snorkeling areas and beaches in Hawaii is open to all….but parking isn’t always easy.  At Two-Step, be prepared to pay a local to allow you to park near the beach and be prepared to walk directly into the water, perhaps not leaving anything for others to grab.  While we were prepping for snorkeling we could not help but hear the advice and warnings from locals to the tourists, warning them to stay away from (don’t chase) the dolphins.  This is great advice in ANY situation with large wildlife in the ocean.  Of course, we heeded their warnings.  But dolphins are often inquisitive, sensitive animals who want to check YOU out and play.  They came toward us, letting the HelmsMistress get some distant footage with her GoPro.

The HelmsMistress filmed with the GoPro, making this YouTube Video:  Oceans Dance, Earth Fury.

Even in Hawaii, getting in and out of the water can be chilly depending on the season.  Wanna be warm no matter what season or where you choose to snorkel, dive or surf?  Check out the ultra-high quality warming and water gear from our friends at www.Surf-fur.com!

Hawai’i Volcanos National Park

I wanted to take the family and see this National Park because none of us had even been close to a volcano and certainly had never seen one actually erupting up close.  Like the ocean and large mountains, this volcano would remind us (probably mostly me) what a tiny speck of life we are in the greater picture of our evolving earth.  This trip and the short time we spent just observing the volcano and it’s power served as a reset of sorts, quickly serving us a sliver of humility as it flexed it’s power into an eruption.

After an hour or so of snorkeling, we continued the drive around the southwest side of the island, stopping at the southernmost bakery in the United States for snacks and then continuing the drive.

Both Kilauea and Mauna Loa Volcanos are located inside this large National Park and both are considered active, with Kilauea in an active eruption phase since December of 2024 and continuing through these spring and summer months.  But the interesting thing is that you might visit the National Park and not see an active eruption, you may just seen the lava oozing up and out and then see the various hot spots at night.  Or you may approach the National Park to see a huge plume of smoke and then watch as lava rock starts to fall on your rental car…..like we did (no permanent damage done-Hertz).  The portion of the national park we were able to see is just a tiny sliver of the entire park, but we saw what we could with the time we had.

We made reservations for dinner at the historic Volcano House.  It’s a hotel, but they allow visitors to check out the back deck for some of the best views of the crater in the whole park.  Parking is a challenge but the view and dinner make up for that.  Needless to say, because of the eruption, the place was a mad house and I’m glad we made reservations.

The next morning after a good breakfast we took off to explore a lava tube (Nahuku) and check out Kilauea Iki Crater from observation points above it.

Next, we hike a short distance to go INSIDE a lava tube and check it out.  It was a bit like descending into the underworld.  Check it out.

Exploring Hilo

We didn’t explore the city of Hilo much beyond driving through it, but what we saw we liked.  The city is less touristy than we saw in Kona, which is fine by us.  Here’s my story in pics: 

Next, we careened up a dirt road into the hills.  Our friends were taking us to a large organic chocolate farm and factory, which didn’t disappoint. 

On the way back on the inter island highway (200), we stopped at a rest stop perfectly positioned between two of the largest and highest volcanoes in the United States. 

Recommendations for families:

-If you plan to go to Hawai’i Volcanoes National Park, think about what you want to do.  If  you want to go and see an active volcano (Kilauea) that’s an easy driving day trip and the park has lots of observation points to check out the volcano.  

If you want to do for more than a day, plan ahead.  Overnight lodging is scare in the park and the only open access hotel in the area is Volcano House Hotel.  But, the hidden jewel is the Kilauea Military Camp, very close to the volcano rim, inexpensive and free breakfast.  Research the requirements to get lodging there and make reservations, you won’t be disappointed. 

Getting up to see the summit of Mauna Loa is a trek and beyond the scope of this blog.  Do research.  

Getting to the summit of Mauna Kea is a drive up option to the north of the island and is said to be really breathtaking for morning sunrise.  Do research. 

–Stock Up– Although the little towns around the volcano and national park are geared toward tourists, stock up at Costco or Walmart in Kona if you can before you do the drive all the way to the park.  You won’t regret it and you’ll save money and time by doing this. 

–Patience and tolerance– If you go to Two-Step or other out of the way snorkeling spots, have a smile and patience for locals you meet.  Most of the folks have seen waaaay too many tourists and we’re just like all the rest.  Clean up your own trash, give some money for parking when needed and don’t park just anywhere, that’s probably in front of someone’s house.  Anywhere, it’s pretty amazing what a smile and a genuine “hello” will do for you-  

–Bring it if you need it– There’s not much past Kona or Hilo on the way to the national park….so bring any special gear, meds or medical devices you need, cause it’s a long way round the island. 

*I would definitely recommend seeing Hawai’i Volcanos National Park if you have time….it could be once in a lifetime.  Even if you only spend a few hours there and check out the lookouts, it’s a VOLCANO.  

*If you have time, Two-Step for snorkeling in calm, clear water with the possibility of large animals would be on my list.  Never thought we’d be in the water with dolphins and then see a real volcano erupt in the same day…..still can’t really process it. 

There, that’s it…..drop the mic!

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