The intent of this post is to put out info and finishing touches on the rest of the posts we've written.
Sometimes we publish multiple stories about experiences in one place, like our time in La Paz, BCS Mexico. Even knowing content is king, I have to admit this post is more functional than elegant prose. So here’s our wrap-up of our time in La Paz, have a good read.
We’ve been in and out of La Paz, Mexico at least six times. We’ve been in a marina, on the hook and on the hard (hauled out) in La Paz and we love the place. At one point, we had stayed in 5 different Airbnb’s in a period of a month and we’ve had our bottom done there, had all new standing and running rigging done there and new custom chainplates designed, built and installed right there in La Paz, BCS Mexico. We’ve also left our Great Dane (Quincy) in a favorite kennel in La Paz for several extended periods of time while we road-tripped up and down the length of the Baja Peninsula in one van or the other…making trips home to renew visas and check on family as we lived through Covid, out of country. In La Paz we’ve celebrated a Christmas, a birthday and the joys of arriving safe in a familiar port after completing the Baha Haha.
Both the HelmsMistress and I have written numerous detailed posts on our various chapters and visits to La Paz, so I’m not going to rehash all of that same information, but I have the links below so you can open them up and read them when you have time. The intent of this post is to put out info and finishing touches on the rest of the posts about La Paz that we’ve written.
December 2020, enjoying a night out on the Malecon.
Marina’s:
La Paz has a variety of marina’s to suit everyone’s tastes. Only two of these marina’s have diesel: Marina Costa Baja and Marina Palmira. Only one marina has potable water on the docks. In the vicinity of Marina La Paz is Marina Cortez….and there’s a myriad of smaller older marinas in La Paz but we have no experience with any of those. In 2019 and 2020 we had no problems getting slips in Marina Palmira but things changed in the fall of 2021. We had been put on the waiting list at Marina Palmira in the summer of 2021 and followed up numerous times to try to get that slip but there was never availability. We’ve heard from other folks that there were not many slips available anywhere in La Paz, perhaps due to a larger Baja HaHa? Or perhaps some of the marinas as La Paz are starting to cater to the sport boat and mid-sized super yacht crowd over cruisers?
Anchoring in the Magote
When we anchored in the Magote in La Paz Harbor in October of 2020, we already had some anchoring experience but knew it might be a challenge to get a solid hook. I had already read a blog post by S/V Totem saying this spot might have been one of the two most challenging places they had ever anchored, so I was nervous already when we slowly moved into position just inside the anchoring markers and dropped the hook. Anchoring in the magote means anchoring over mud in a constantly changing environment because of the battle between tidal flow and current. We were able to get a good hook and chain out, but our big lady has an 8-ft draft so we knew she would swing differently than all the other kids on the block. That afternoon, school came into session as the tide and current went different directions and the afternoon winds kicked in, pushing Tulum around like she was a toy boat. The movement was unnerving but not dangerous and we held over that bottom with no problems. Yup check that box, Tulum anchored in the Magote with no problems.
Active Cruising Networks
La Paz has strong ties to cruisers and boaters. There are strong active cruising networks and support in La Paz, especially from Club Crucerosand La Paz Cruisers Supply(owned by cruisers Rich and Lori Boran). In La Paz you can find help with most boating needs, from chandlery to haul out yard. We hauled out, had custom welding done to create new chainplates and taller lifelines, all new standing and running rigging done and installed new Lithium Ion Batteries on the boat (with some help). There’s also a selection of mechanics, electricians, an outboard engine mechanic and dinghy repair specialists in La Paz.
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Because of all the amenities, networks/services and great food La Paz is a cruiser vortex. What do I mean by cruiser vortex? I mean this is one of these places where cruisers come into, but some never leave as they get stuck…sucked in by the great climate, good prices, great sailing, proximity to clear water and white sand beaches and vicinity to the US west coast.
Photo by Jo Kassis
Here’s more info:
Ease of anchoring: When we anchored in the Magote in La Paz Harbor in October of 2020, we already had some anchoring experience but knew it might be a challenge to get a solid hook. I had already read a blog post by S/V Totem saying this spot might have been one of the toughest places they had ever anchored, so I was nervous already when we slowly moved into position just inside the anchoring markers and dropped the hook. Anchoring in the magote means anchoring over mud in a constantly changing environment because of the battle between tidal flow and current. We were able to get a good hook and chain out, but our big lady has an 8-ft draft so we knew she would swing differently than all the other kids on the block. That afternoon, school came into session as the tide and current went different directions and the afternoon winds kicked in, pushing Tulum around like she was a toy boat. The movement was unnerving but not dangerous and we held over that bottom with no problems.
Noise at anchor: Yes, there is. Water taxis zip back and forth, there’s noise from the city and noise from airplanes.
Provisioning: Provisioning is great in La Paz whether you’re at anchor or in a marina. Mercado Bravo is a covered/outside market that’s an experience and I love the shopping at Chedraui.
Cellular reception at anchor: Yes.
Water Clarity: Not clear water.
Protection: Protection from swells in the Magote, but not from wind. Don’t be anchored here in the summer during hurricane season.
Bugs: None
Marina: The only marina we stayed in while we were here is Marina Palmira. Marina Palmira is one of the newer marinas in La Paz and has a real (stone/concrete) breakwater that is supposed to work better during hurricane conditions. I would not want to find out. Marina Palmira is a full service marina with fuel dock, pump out service and bottom cleaning/mechanical/electrical services available. The Marina has a store, restaurant, bar, hotel, two different dive shops on property, a small marine chandlery and several Airbnbs. Showers and bathrooms here are not first class but still clean and the marina has a freshwater pool. Note: Wifi is available on the docks. The Marina answers channel-16, but you should definetly have a confirmed reservation before going through the channel and into the marina.
Throughout La Paz, there is a morning cruisers radio net on channel 22 at 0800. For more information on the morning net or the taco’s in La Paz, contact Rich Boran at La Paz Cruisers Supply.
We loved our time in La Paz and Baja, but never expected to have the heavy repairs and upgrades done that eventually became a reality. In La Paz we hauled out, had standing and running rigging done and had to have all new chain plates done. We’re happy with the work. Although we’ve moved on from Baja and are now heading south into Central America, we’re really glad we spent two different cruising seasons in the Sea of Cortez.
We’ve written numerous stories about our time in La Paz, here’s a few links below:
